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Silver SP
Well, the other week I was made an offer I couldn’t refuse. The offer was to buy another Olympus SP, but this time in Silver, for a very reasonable price. Actually, an extremely reasonable price. I wasn’t in the market for another camera, let alone another SP, but somehow I convinced myself I should get another one. =/
The SP on offer came with its original case and manual, but the best bit was that it had just undergone a CLA, plus it had a modification that allows it to take modern voltage batteries without any stuffing around. These two things alone would of cost more than what I ended up buying the camera for, so I was pretty pleased. I was about to send my black SP in for a CLA anyway, so this saved me the hassle, plus i can now leave it at home and not worry about scratching the thing (well that’s how I justified the purchase). The silver one is now my user, even though it is cosmetically and functionally flawless. (I would of been happy which a scratched up user, but who am I to complain?)
So anyway, here’s a quick picture of them together below :
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Scanned some more shots
Scanned some more shots today, nothing profound, more just fodder to try out some new developing times. APX400 in Rodinal at 1:50 for 28 minutes. Its all a learning experience for me so I’m quite pleased with how they turned out. Also, I couldn’t find any suggested times suitable, so I kind of had to make my own up.
The thing I’ve noticed lately with film is that shallow depth of field shots looks wonderful. Especially with some nice grain, it has such a unique aesthetic that I really love. In the future I’m going to try and take advantage of that more.

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A week with my Mju:II
Last month, for a bit of fun, I shot a roll of cheap film over the space of a week with my Mju:II. I kept the camera in my car and in my pocket most of the time just taking pictures of things that looked interesting. There’s nothing revolutionary about this concept, and I’ve been carrying cameras around with me for quite some time now. But there seemed something different this time. The fact that the camera only offered a limited amount of options to the user. No manual settings, no zoom, an auto focus, auto everything pretty much. Every other camera I own has manual settings, so I wasn’t sure how far I’d get with this automatic plastic fantastic Olympus. Also, I’d never used the camera before so thought it’d be a good opportunity to test it out.
To say I was happy with the results is an understatement. This little camera has now shot up the list of my current favourites. The lens is sharp, and i think the photos it produces (looking at the prints) has a distinct look. Its also very compact and strong. I was walking over rocks covered in moss once and managed to slip over (I’m normally not that clumsy). The camera was in my right hand, which took the full weight of my body when I fell over on the rocks. The camera survived with just one scratch, a lot better than me who managed to be bleeding from my arms and back =/ . The camera had this roll of film in it too, so I was worried at one point that the back may of opened, or something cracked letting light in, but everything was completely fine. I finished shooting the roll that day.
Photos were taken in the Sydney CDB and suburbs, quite often driving to or from things. There’s a night shot in Circular Quay where I just put the camera on a fence and let it select its own shutter speed which turned out perfect. There’s some other night ones where I turned on spot metering and turned the flash off.
Here are some shots.




Here is a more detailed review of this neat little camera.
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b&w film developing
I’ve started developing my own black and white film recently, so thought I’d post up some info on the process for others who may also be starting out. When I first begun researching the process I noted the vast array of conflicting opinions for the more minute details, however managed to distil the fundamental process of developing fairly easily. Quite simple, it consists of three steps. They are :
- Developer
- Stop Bath
- Fixer
Now it’s possible to break down each step further as there are almost endless options. Basically it comes down to timing and choice of chemical. I decided to keep things simple though so this is how I approached those steps.
- For my developer I chose Rodinal. It is the oldest commercial developer on the market, so my logic was that there should be plenty of info about dilution and timing online already.
- Next you have the stop bath. This can consist simply of water if you choose, however I decided to go with an Ilford stop solution as it uses less water and is a little quicker (Ilford Ilfostop).
- Lastly there’s the fixer with another range of chemical options, however I kept things simple and went with an Ilford product again (Ilford rapid fixer).
After completing these 3 fundamental processes you have a couple of extra options :
- A Hypo-Clearing Agent which cuts down washing time considerably (instead of using 30 minutes you use 7 for example).
- Then a product like Photoflo which is the very last step before drying. It will coat the film and help prevent uneven drying and water marks etc.
Although these two steps are optional, they are worthy of serious consideration. After you’ve completed the whole process all you need to do is hang the film to dry. If you don’t have a dedicated dryer it’s recommended by many to let the film dry overnight. I normally wait at least a few hours depending on the weather though as I’m often a little impatient. You just don’t want to put wet film away in to storage though as it won’t end well.
Now, what about timings and dilutions for the development stage? Behold the amazing resource that is digitaltruth’s Massive Dev Chart :
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
It should contain the film you’re choosing to develop and the developer you’re using. Just match it up with the iso you shot at and choose your dilution, you’ll then have a suggested development time. Bear in mind though with b&w film there is no standard method, it involves trial and error as factors such as water type and temperature, dev tank and reel design, rotation method and chemical age can all influence the end result. My tip would be using the same equipment and keeping your own journal of dev times and results to refer back to.In the interest of keeping things simple I’ve left out a number of elements that are better demonstrated than written. Simply search youtube for a guide on film developing as visualising the process will increase your chances of success. Here are a couple links to help get you started :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu0Ul_wsYO8 (One of many film developing videos on youtube)
http://outsideinpixels.com/blog/?p=1152Â (My friend Jack’s more detailed film developing guide)
http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfilmdev.html (Another b&w film developing guide I used to get started)Below is a picture of the equipment I’m using at the moment. Nothing advanced of complicated, all very simple stuff. In addition to this I have a dust proof folder to store negatives in, plus 3 more measuring jugs.

In the photo you can see the chemicals, the developing tank with 2 reels inside (back left), the changing bag (front right), thermometer (in yellow case middle centre), film clips, measuring syringe, cylinder measuring graduate, and a cheap $2 clock with seconds hand. The chemicals are relatively cheap, and everything else is reused, so after the initial purchase the only things you’re spending money on is the film. At the moment I’m using the Rodinal at 1:50 for 13 minutes for 100ISO film, so at 6ml per roll, the 500ml bottle will last ages.
It’s a really enjoyable and rewarding process so I suggest everyone should try it at least once. The only danger is you may get the urge to make your own wet prints. An equally enjoyable process but one requiring a slightly greater commitment of time and resources!
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Developed my first roll today
Wow, two posts in one day. Go me.
I developed my first roll of film today. As I mentioned in a previous post, i’ve been thinking of trying out some black and white film developing for a while now. This week i got some gear and gave it a go.
I shot a roll on Agfa APX100 and developed it in Rodinal at 1:50 for 13 minutes, then used Ilford stop bath and fixer.
It was a pretty straightforward process, the hardest bit was starting, as I was worried about stuffing something up. In the end I did stuff something up, but it had nothing to do with the chemicals and timing etc. It was the fact that I stupidly hung my negatives to dry in a shower with a leaking head. So I got drips of water down the bottom of my strip of negatives. Some of the water marks dried out, but others didn’t. You always stuff up the shots you’re most interested in seeing don’t you… Well I do anyway.
The negatives that didn’t dry out are being re-soaked. Hopefully i can salvage some of them.
I was quite happy with the ones that did dry properly, so I scanned them in with my ancient scanner that magnifies grain and dissipates tonal range.
Here are a few shots that scanned ok.
They’re aren’t amazing, but I am more interested in seeing if I developed them correctly or not. I think they’re pretty close.
As you can tell in some of the shots, the light was incredibly harsh the day I took these…. One day I’ll be able to shoot in favourable light… One day.

